Transplanting

The basic problem with transplanting is simple: roots need to be able to sustain their tops, but transplanting inevitably damages roots. So your goal is to minimize damage to roots and, if necessary, reduce the top to a level that the roots can support while they are settling in.

To begin with, try to avoid purchasing plants that are pot-bound, which hurts the roots. This is one of the reasons why plants from mail order places such as Bluestone Perennials often do better in the long run than plants from garden centers, which have often become root-bound or experienced heat and water stress.

Roots don’t like air, sun, and heat, so never transplant anything in the heat of a sunny day. Waiting until a gray overcast day is best, especially if there is rain in the weather prediction. If you must transplant in sunny weather, at least wait until after the heat of the day is over and try to provide shade for the roots during the entire transplanting process.

Start by removing any top growth that is damaged, since trying to heal damage will do the plant more harm than good. Use a sharp blade, rather than tearing the plant, to create a clean cut. Anything that is aimed at reproduction (buds, flowers, seeds) should also be removed. The goal here is root growth, not reproduction.

Dig a generous hole – at least twice the diameter and depth of the current pot. Remove rocks as you go and break up the soil so it is loose and friable. If you have any doubts about whether there is enough water in the soil, fill the hole with water and let it sink in before continuing.

Spread the roots out so they are headed in many directions, both sideways and down.

As a general rule, put the plant as deep in the soil as it was before. One exception is tomato plants, which will sprout additional roots from the stem if you bury it. But most plants don’t like to have their stems or crowns buried.

Fill the hole with soil that contains some organic matter, but try not to make too large a difference between the planting hole and the surrounding soil. Otherwise the roots may never leave the planting hole.

Tamp the soil down very well. Air holes kill roots.

Water the plant thoroughly with water mixed with kelp extract, which has useful rooting hormones and micronutrients.

Stand back, look at the plant, and prune the top growth for size, shape, and balance. Think about where its growth tips are and where you want it to grow.
Keep the plant well-watered during its transition time. (One day to two years – you’ve got a judgment call here!)

If the weather is hot, set up something to shade the plant. A little open-sided tent made out of cardboard or planks of lumber can work well.

Come back the next day. If the plant looks wilted, that’s called transplant shock. If it’s a herbaceous perennial, cut off any parts of the plant that have wilted. Be sure to use a blade. If it’s a shrub or tree, things take longer to grow back, so you have a judgment call to make. If it’s just a little unhappy, use kelp extract and water it well. If it is a lot unhappy, however, you may choose to sacrifice part of the plant rather than risk losing the whole thing.

This may seem like a lot to think about, but it all can be summarized as “take care of the roots!” A little bit of carefulness at transplanting time can make a big difference in how quickly a plant settles in and how healthy and happy it will be in the long run.

Next page: Planting Bulbs